ARCTIC DRIFTER HEADS NORTH 2000
Arctic Drifter replaced our Coaster in late 1994, offering a little more chance of comfort on 4-6 week cruises. She was called Arctic Drifter because, one day, she would go to the Arctic Circle and beyond. In the event we were delayed by: marriage; two, land based arctic expeditions; job change; and inertia (not to mention finance!). Eventually, there were no more excuses and, after rather a lot of preparation, we set off for Norway on Wednesday 19th of July 2000.
As this was a holiday rather than an expedition the North Sea was crossed by ferry to Bergen, with great ease. From Bergen we trailed south, after several navigationally challenged circuits of the city, to the delightfully sheltered Bergen Yacht Club at Kviturspollen, where we were able to launch at leisure. During launching the incident with the telephone wire was unfortunate, but no lasting damage was done. Saturday was our first day at sea. With the temperature at 80 plus, and clear sky we motored north. The wake of numerous large motorboats was tedious rather than troublesome, the boat being well balanced by 79 cans of beer (duty paid - ouch). Local brews are very pleasant, but expensive. In the early stages the surrounding land was wooded and hilly with distinctive features, making navigation very easy. 31Nm later we dropped anchor in Grunnesundet, alone and at peace with the world. This set the pattern for the next two weeks, with a week of unrelenting sun, followed by a week of dry overcast.
Every few days we had a town or village to stay at, always with sheltered pontoons, usually with facilities and a good range of shops and services. In all these places there was a high degree of local interest with a common question - “ Did you really come across the North Sea in that?” As we headed north our replies became less sheepish, especially after we had rounded Statt, western Norway’s most notorious headland.
By the time we had reached Tusna, 8Nm beyond Kristiansund, we were probably ready for a break, having had a reasonable move every day for two weeks. This was just as well. The wind moved to westerly and increased from 0 - F7 during the night. This forced a short night move, through tightish drying rocks to a more sheltered location. After three days in Moldvagen (Muddy Bay and therefore good holding) we ‘cracked’ and headed round the corner to the Ringholmen Hotel, which occupies the site of an old fishing station. From here we were able to take the fast catamaran (32knots) up to Trondheim where we paid tax so that we could leave the boat in Norway for a number of years.
Moving on from Ringholmen the wind was still from the north and the weather less settled. With fewer settlements we spent most nights in remote anchorages. The only problem was deciding which sheltered bay to use. We rarely went without the opportunity of 360 degrees shelter.
All comes to an end and it was time to consider a winter berth. We had brought a winch for dragging the boat on shore using skids made from flotsam. However, a contact of a contact told us of cheap storage at Rorvik. Unfortunately this information was out of date. After some hunting about for a likely site an internet message from the same contact sent us 30Nm south to Namsos Boat Club where we were made to feel very welcome. The hire of a campsite cabin made drying in the now very wet conditions much easier. A lorry with a crane was arranged and the boat came ashore very easily onto substantial cradles, which were given to us by a man who had recently sold his cabin cruiser. To ease the mast/spar stowage we made a new cabin door, complete with hole.
As we were finishing off the lay up Jostein Busch introduced and appointed himself as Arctic Drifter’s guardian. As his house overlooks the boat we were more than happy with this arrangement. He has been kind enough to brush the snow off every so often. All that remained was a flight back to Bergen (from a 750 metre runway!) and ferry home, arriving on 29th August.
In the fullness of time we hope to justify the name, Arctic Drifter. As we cruise northwards in 2001 we should achieve some justification as we cross the Arctic Circle. In 2002 we can feel partially justified as we round the North Cape. 2003 should give leeway for some exploration rather than “getting there”. In 2004 Bob hopes to cruise round Spitsbergen, having shipped the boat out from Tromso. Yvonne is not so sure!
A trip to Norway is potentially expensive. As the main “additional” cost (over a UK cruise) is the ferry fare, the cost per week can be reduced by going for a long period. We would suggest that the reward is well worth the outlay. However, do be aware that Norway could seriously damage your opinion of more local coastlines.
Those intent on a similar venture may well wish to seek further information. We are happy to provide a starting point for your research. Contact number is (01889) 590834 or YMENNEER@aol.com.