Raggio Verde in CorsicaA Lugger in the crystal-clear waters of Cap Corse Mario F. Dotti – Milan |
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Drascombe Lugger Raggio Verde came out from Honnor Marine in 1979, with n° 1118. Still today, after a 20 years honourable career, is in very good health.
I bought her in March 2000; she came after a highly beloved 1936 Berthon's Gauntlet Class, turned by J.Laurent Giles to a 50 feet ketch in the early 60s.
I had to take some care of my Drascombe: did the woodwork, varnished the spars, coated some scratches and polished the hull... Now she looks very smart and happy.
Raggio Verde can be described as a "Med Lugger". Her former owner provided her with extra sails and rigging, to let her take advantage of Mediterranean light airs: a tan genoa jib, a bowsprit with a red-striped flying jib, a boom and even a mizzen staysail! But, after a while playing with all that (and finding out no material increase in performance), I decided to revert to the standard rig: well balanced, simplier to handle, quicker to lower, hence safer.
In August 2000, I took my family (wife and 2 kids, 3 and 1,5 years old) and Raggio Verde (with trailer) to Corsica, in a place at the North end of the isle, named Barcaggio. Barcaggio is a tiny fishing old village, located in front of the rock of Giraglia.
In Barcaggio, two are the keywords: sun and silence. You won't find shops, bars, discos, pubs, crowd, loud music; nothing at all. Just a few private houses and a little hotel. You feel dropped in an almost unreal environment, dominated by a rare peace and a rough nature. Under a hot sun, you can travel back in time visiting the ruins of grand ancient towers that Genoeses built in the XVI century to fight the Saracens, or just lose yourself in endless landscapes, enveloped in a magnificent soundtrack: the surf of the waves, the breeze and the sound of cicadas. And this paradise is only four hours ferry from Nice, in France, or Leghorn or La Spezia, in Italy.
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A familiar and sheltered little harbour welcomed Raggio Verde. Its shallow waters and reduced room allows only for RIBs and little boats. I can say that Barcaggio's harbour is quite perfect for Drascombes: comfortable floating jetties with buoy moorings and a slipway with lot of parking room for trailers; all this, within a diameter of fifty yards. A miniature portlet. Barcaggio harbour (photo from www.corsica.net). During the season, two small floating jetties are added to provide more moorings. Far left,in the trees, the hotel; the slipway is located just beside the quay on the right. |
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Great surroundings indeed to sail and to enjoy the sea. The Giraglia rock is a perfect mark for a direct course and back.
off the Giraglia rock |
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You can discover many enchanted coves and inlets along the coast, reaching the picturesque fishing port of Centuri (about 6 miles West)… Centuri port (photo from www.internetcom.fr/corseweb) |
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…or the natural reserve of Capandula (about 4 miles East), with its astonishing mix of white sands, clear water, ruins and vineyards that meet the sea. Capandula natural reserve |
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But if you want a tropical style beach, with transparent turquoise water, shallow draft to let kids play or just lay in and relax, then the big beach outside Barcaggio is for you. You can anchor your Drascombe at forty yards from the beach, where the water is still 3 feet deep, having your boat within …walking! The breathtaking colour of the water off the beach of Barcaggio. In the background, the village. |
If staying ashore, an interesting thing to do is to follow the "Sentier du douanier" ("trail of the custom officer"), a 8 hours hiking that takes you along the whole coast of the Cap Corse, from East to West, alternating beaches and sheer cliffs. Great panoramas.
Some practical tips, finally.
Barcaggio is 1,5 hour driving North from Bastia. Drive and tow carefully: some roads are damaged and Corse people drive like they were at Silverstone or Monza!
Barcaggio is quite isolated. To me, this is an advantage indeed, but could be a problem for those who need to stay in touch: no TV, newspapers, internet or e-mail are available; there's only a public phone at the harbour and a fax machine at the hotel. You can solve the issue with a palmtop and a cellphone, but if you just want to get acquainted of what's happening in the world, an ordinary FM/AM radio is a good thing to bring along.
There ain't no stores at all in Barcaggio: a van brings bread on a daily basis and vegetables, fruits and other basic foods twice a week. The harbour provides fresh water but not electricity and petrol. A weather forecast is daily exhibited by the harbour master.
The only sleeping accomodation available in Barcaggio is a little hotel (bed & breakfast). As to eating, there are two small bar & restaurants (one at the harbour, one on the beach).
In principle, to have a car in Barcaggio is preferrable (even just to reach other restaurants in the near villages! The closest are Centuri and Macinaggio, 20 min driving for both). I stayed 17 days at the hotel, with family (kids included), with car and boat moored in the harbour: it was perfect.
For those who prefer to get in Barcaggio by sailing, Macinaggio is a good and well organized base to start from: is about 8 miles coastal sailing from Barcaggio and offers a big marina and all boatyard facilities, assistance, services you may need, aswell as supermarkets, restaurants, hotels, post office.
A stay in Barcaggio could happily be part of a tour around Corsica. This land is marvellous. I use to say that Corsica is a whole continent within a small island: from the white sandy beaches and lively, ancient towns of the coast, by driving a little bit, you can reach forests, canyons, torrents, lakes and even "Alpine looking" snow-peaked mountains!
But this is another story…
I'll be happy to provide any further information, should anyone be interested to. Please write me at dottimar@tin.it.